2023 Clément Lavallée Saint-Bris "Les Copains d'Abord"

Clément Lavallée Saint-Bris "Les Copains d'Abord" 2023 is Burgundy's great anomaly bottled. Saint-Bris is the only AOC in the entire region permitted to produce white wine from Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, setting it apart from the Chardonnay-dominated landscape that surrounds it. Situated just southwest of Chablis near Auxerre, the appellation shares Kimmeridgian limestone soils and a cool climate with its famous neighbor, lending the wines a distinctive mineral edge alongside their aromatic Sauvignon character. The 2023 vintage strikes a beautiful balance between fruit and minerality, more structured than the 2022 that preceded it. Clément Lavallée is one of Saint-Bris's most exciting young producers. After stints at Chapoutier and Château Margaux, he struck out on his own in 2019 alongside his sister Caroline, farming 5.5 hectares without reliance on chemicals and making wines that punch well above the appellation's modest profile. "Les Copains d'Abord" — loosely translated as "Friends First" — is his flagship Saint-Bris cuvée, a project that reflects both his classical training and his commitment to expressing the limestone terroir he inherited. The fruit is farmed organically and vinified with minimal intervention, allowing the Sauvignon Blanc to speak with clarity and precision. The 2023 is pale straw with a bright, youthful gleam. The nose is expressive and layered with grapefruit, mandarin orange, white peach, crushed blackcurrant leaves, white flowers, and a subtle saline, iodine-edged minerality that signals the limestone underneath. The palate is taut and refined, with vivid acidity providing energy and focus. Fresh citrus and stone fruit carry through the mid-palate, framed by a fine mineral backbone and a hint of spice on the finish. It's mouthwatering and lingers with purpose. Pair it with oysters, grilled fish, goat cheese, or a simple summer spread with friends — exactly as the name suggests. In stock at Off Premise in Lincoln Park.