2023 Clément Lavallée Saint-Bris "Les Copains d'Abord"

Clément Lavallée Saint-Bris "Les Copains d'Abord" 2023 is Burgundy's great anomaly bottled. Saint-Bris is the only AOC in the entire region permitted to produce white wine from Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, setting it apart from the Chardonnay-dominated landscape that surrounds it. Situated just southwest of Chablis near Auxerre, the appellation shares Kimmeridgian limestone soils and a cool climate with its famous neighbor, lending the wines a distinctive mineral edge alongside their aromatic Sauvignon character. Clément Lavallée is one of Saint-Bris's most exciting young producers. After stints at Chapoutier and Château Margaux, he struck out on his own in 2019 alongside his sister Caroline, farming 5.5 hectares without reliance on chemicals and making wines that punch well above the appellation's modest profile. "Les Copains d'Abord" — loosely translated as "Friends First" — is his flagship Saint-Bris cuvée. The 2023 vintage is pale straw with a bright, youthful gleam, the nose expressive and layered with grapefruit, mandarin orange, white peach, crushed blackcurrant leaves, white flowers, and a subtle saline, iodine-edged minerality that signals the limestone underneath. The palate is taut and refined, with vivid acidity providing energy and focus. Fresh citrus and stone fruit carry through the mid-palate, framed by a fine mineral backbone and a hint of spice on the finish. More structured than the 2022, the 2023 strikes a beautiful balance between fruit and minerality, with a mouthwatering, lingering close. Pair it with oysters, grilled fish, goat cheese, or a simple summer spread with friends — exactly as the name suggests. Available for pickup at Off Premise Chicago, 1128 W Armitage Ave in Lincoln Park, with local Chicago delivery and nationwide shipping.