Domaine Moreau Naudet Chablis 1er Cru Forets 2024

Moreau-Naudet is one of Chablis’ most admired small estates. Stéphane Moreau, who learned from Vincent Dauvissat, built its reputation for Chablis with both generosity and mineral energy. Since his untimely death in 2016, his wife Virginie has carried the domaine forward with the same uncompromising approach: organic farming, hand harvesting and patient élevage. Forêts, on Chablis’ left bank, is a sub-site of Montmains with stony clay over Kimmeridgian limestone. It’s known as one of the most powerful and intense premier crus. The domaine farms just under two hectares of mature vines here, and ages the wine mostly in stainless steel with about a third in oak. The 2024 is a rare bottle. Frost, hail and mildew made it one of Chablis’ smallest vintages in memory, and the domaine made only 40 hectoliters from its Forêts vines. What it did make is outstanding: ripe apricot, orange peel and nougat, with hints of exotic fruit, all lifted by bright energy, saline minerality and a long, mouth-watering finish. It drinks well young but has the concentration and acidity to age for a decade or more.