2012 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva

López de Heredia is one of the most traditional wineries in all of Rioja. They do things the old way, on purpose, and it shows in every sip. The 2012 Tondonia is a blend of Tempranillo with small amounts of Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, aged six years in barrel before release, which is a long time, and it matters. The color is a clear ruby with just a hint of bricking at the edges. That amber rim is a signature of this style and tells you the wine has some age on it. On the nose you get red fruits like raspberry, dried cranberry and a little plum, alongside more savory notes like cedar, fresh leather and cigar box. On the palate it's full and round with polished tannins and a long dry finish. There's brightness and freshness that keeps it from feeling heavy, which is the magic of this wine. 2012 was a very dry year with lower yields, which gave the grapes exceptional balance. This is widely considered one of the stronger recent Tondonia vintages. If you've never had an old-school Rioja like this, the savory, earthy quality might surprise you. That's the point. This is a wine that rewards your attention.