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2023 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils Chablis "Les Tierces"
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2023 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils Chablis "Les Tierces"

$58.00
Founded in 1955 in the small village of Milly, just outside Chablis, the domaine is now run by Fabien Dauvissat, grandson of founder Jean Dauvissat, who took over from his father in 2009. Fabien set two clear goals upon taking the reins: converting the estate's farming from conventional to organic, and rebuilding the brand's reputation and export presence. Today the domaine farms 22 hectares across seven communes and 53 separate parcels. Les Tierces is a village-level Chablis vineyard located in the commune of Chapelle-Vaupelteigne, on a full east-facing hillside with topsoil over classic limestone marl. 2023 was a notably sunny, more open vintage across Chablis, generally lower in acidity than typical years, which led some producers to make acid corrections to preserve freshness. Dauvissat's Les Tierces took a different, more transparent path: the label proudly states a yield of 72 hectoliters per hectare, the maximum allowed by French regulators that year, well above the typical 60 hl/ha limit. Despite that high yield, and the real risk of dilution it can bring, the wine has been singled out by critics as remarkably balanced, with enough substance and tension to uphold Chablis's characteristic style even at volume. Expect the classic Chablis signature: bright citrus and green apple fruit, a distinct flinty, chalky minerality from the underlying Kimmeridgian-adjacent limestone marl, and a harmonious, well-integrated acidity that carries real structure through the finish, organic, unoaked, and true to village-level Chablis's precise, mineral-driven identity. It's a genuine, honestly made expression of a strong but tricky vintage, and a great example of how careful vineyard work can outperform yield restrictions typically assumed necessary for quality.
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Pickup at 1128 W Armitage Ave, Chicago.