La Capranera Falanghina Campania

The name La Capranera means "black goat" in Italian, named for the cilentana nera, an indigenous breed of goat that roams the Cilento National Park near where these vines grow. It is a detail that tells you something about this producer: rooted in place, focused on what is native, not chasing trends. The estate is San Salvatore, founded by Giuseppe Pagano in Capaccio-Paestum in the province of Salerno, just a few miles from the Tyrrhenian Sea. This is one of the most historically rich corners of southern Italy. The ancient Greek temples of Paestum, some of the best preserved in the world, stand just down the road from the vineyards, a reminder that wine has been made in this exact place for over two thousand years. The vineyards sit at around 130 meters elevation on clay and chalk soils, certified organic and farmed with minimal intervention. Falanghina is one of the oldest grape varieties in southern Italy, with roots going back to ancient Rome when Campania was considered the most important wine region in the world. The winemaking is straightforward: slow cold fermentation in stainless steel, six months on the lees before bottling. Nothing to get in the way of the grape. The color is pale straw with greenish highlights. On the nose it is fresh and aromatic with pear, green apple, citrus blossom and a hint of tropical fruit underneath. On the palate it is smooth and round with bright acidity, a saline mineral quality and a clean, lingering finish. The sea is close and you can feel it in the wine.