2016 Yeringberg Marsanne Roussanne, Yarra Valley

The 2016 Yeringberg Marsanne Roussanne represents one of the Yarra Valley's most storied estates at the peak of its modern form, a benchmark white blend from a warm, generous vintage that the fourth-generation de Pury siblings handled with remarkable finesse. Yeringberg's history stretches back to the 19th century, when it was among the region's founding vineyards, but the estate's contemporary chapter began in 1969 when Guill and Katherine de Pury replanted vines that had been pulled out decades earlier after a collapse in the British wine market. Their first commercial release came in 1974, and since 2008, siblings Sandra and David have guided the property—Sandra in the winery, David in the vineyard with a PhD in plant physiology backing his decisions. They farm the site alongside grass-fed lamb and cattle, a mixed-agriculture approach that speaks to the estate's old-world sensibility. This bottling, roughly 61% Marsanne and 39% Roussanne, showcases what happens when the Rhône's great white varieties are planted in cool-climate Australian terroir and allowed to age. The 2016 vintage brought ripeness and generosity, and critics have noted this wine's combination of power, grace, and exceptional length, with many suggesting it still has another gear to reach as it continues to develop in bottle. The nose opens demurely, then expands with air into honeysuckle, stone fruit, and oak spice, along with savory, almost meal-like notes. Some tasters also pick up spicy loquat, dried clove, white pepper, sage, green apple, and even a touch of Camembert-like richness as the wine evolves in the glass. On the palate, it's full-bodied and beautifully layered, taut yet well-rounded, with a savory, subtly pithy character balanced by gentle viscosity and spice. Intensely flavored pear and peach pith carry through to a long, spicy finish. Pair this with roast chicken, grilled lobster, or aged Alpine cheeses. It's a wine that rewards patience and thoughtful company, whether you're opening it now or cellaring it for years to come.