2022 Bodegs Binario Tempranillo

Bodegas Binario's 2022 Tempranillo from Rioja Baja is a lighter, more agile expression of Spain's flagship red grape, built around partial carbonic fermentation and zero oak. The Serrano family hand-harvests fruit from 30-year-old organically and biodynamically farmed vines at night to lock in freshness, then ferments a portion as whole clusters under CO2 before pressing — a technique that amplifies red-fruit aromatics and keeps tannins soft. At 12.5% ABV, this wine lands firmly in the glou-glou camp, a deliberate departure from the structured, barrel-aged Rioja that dominates the category. The Serrano family has farmed organically and biodynamically in the Rioja Baja subzone for decades, long before certification became a selling point. Their vineyards sit between Calahorra and Andosilla in the warmest and most Mediterranean of Rioja's three subzones, where clay and limestone soils and generous Ebro River Valley sun ripen Tempranillo with fruit-forward intensity. The partial carbonic maceration extracts color and bright cherry character while leaving the structure playful, and the decision to ferment in stainless steel rather than oak keeps the vineyard and the vintage front and center. This is Tempranillo shaped by place and farming, not by barrel regimen. Dark cherry and raspberry drive the aromatics, layered with dried fig, violet, and a whisper of tobacco on the finish. The tannins show classic Tempranillo grip — rustic but balanced, with enough structure to anchor food without overwhelming lighter dishes. Pour this alongside a charcuterie board loaded with jamón serrano and Manchego, or pair it with grilled lamb chops, pork tenderloin, or roasted mushrooms. The wine drinks easy on its own, too, served with a slight chill in warm weather or at cellar temperature when you want a red with substance but not weight. In stock at Off Premise in Lincoln Park.